The cultivation of vines and the production of wine have profoundly shaped the history and daily life of Bargota. Their roots stretch back to Roman times, when this tradition first began, later intensifying during the Middle Ages and giving rise to a wine-growing culture that has endured to the present day.
The innovative spirit of the people of Bargota can still be felt in the historic Arbanta irrigation system, an impressive hydraulic engineering work built between the 16th and 17th centuries. Rainwater and melted snow were collected at the foot of the mountains and channelled for 14 kilometres, winding across hillsides and mountain passes until reaching the thirsty vineyards that covered the terraces overlooking the Ebro Valley. Although the system fell into disuse in the mid-20th century, an oval-shaped cistern still survives, crowned by a beautiful corbelled false dome constructed through the gradual overlapping of stone courses.
Until the 20th century, most grape growers owned their own wine cellar, located either beneath the family home or in different parts of the village. Today, Bargota preserves 54 wine cellars, some restored, others quietly resting beneath the passage of time, all gathered together in the quarter that extends below the parish church.
Wine production followed a process that was both laborious and fascinating. Grapes were taken to the lagar (traditional wine press), usually located above the cellar, and poured through old wooden hatches. From there they passed into the treading area, where they began their transformation into must, mixed with skins and grape pomace, before flowing down into vats and fermentation tanks. The winemaking season lasted from September until late November, depending on the grape variety and the ripeness of the fruit.
By the beginning of the 19th century, Bargota already stood out for its significant wine production and trade. Its entrepreneurial character was also reflected internationally: at the end of that century, a local producer took part in the Philomatic Exhibition in Bordeaux, and records show that wines from Bargota were exported as far as New York. Families such as the Aranzadi, Ganuza and Díez de Cerco were pioneers in this path towards modernisation and prestige.
The 20th century brought major changes. With the creation of the Rioja Qualified Designation of Origin (DOCa Rioja), of which Bargota forms part, viticulture received a new impetus. Mechanisation and changing production requirements gradually led to the abandonment of the traditional wine cellars located beneath ancestral homes. Today, visitors can explore seven of these cellars virtually thanks to QR codes that provide access to immersive 360-degree tours.
Among the best-preserved examples are the Bodega del Diezmo and Bodega Ganuza, true jewels of the village’s heritage. Together, they form the historic heart of Bargota, overlooked by the Church of Santa María and the Town Hall, and surrounded by magnificent examples of both vernacular and refined architecture.
The parish church we see today is the very same church where, according to local tradition, Johannes of Bargota served as chaplain. He is the legendary wizard of Bargota, said to have studied at the University of Salamanca and to have learned the secrets of the famous Cave of Salamanca, where—legend has it—the devil himself taught forbidden lessons.
Just a short distance from the church, on Juan Lobo Street, a house is identified as the place where Johannes is believed to have lived with his housekeeper. It is not difficult to imagine him wandering time and again through this quarter of wine cellars, perhaps pausing to enjoy Bargota’s excellent wine before celebrating Mass… or before setting off on one of his mysterious journeys.
